LIKE A LOCAL

Down in Dubai

Sure, there are guidebooks that list every restaurant and attraction in destinations around the world. But Porthole’s “Like a Local” department goes straight to the natives, who truly know the way to go.

By Kathi Everden

Twenty-one years ago when I moved to Dubai from England, the region was viewed as a danger zone. Just three months after the end of the first Gulf War, there were few intrepid tourists, only two beach hotels, and a job as editor of a travel trade magazine might not have been viewed as the best career move.


Fast forward and today you’ll find a 21st-century city, a multicultural hub made up of more than 140 different nationalities where soaring skyscrapers rub shoulders with timeless souks and attractions range from ski slopes to limitless shopping in this safe and sunny modern-day cruise destination. It’s been a privilege to witness and record the transformation while enjoying the good things in life offered by Dubai and the region.

Tourist Tips
With less than 500,000 cruise passengers a year, Dubai is not a city overwhelmed with coach buses so visitors will enjoy stress-free sightseeing. City tours generally include the Burj Al Arab hotel and Jumeirah Mosque, the Bastakiya Heritage District, the Dubai Museum, and Downtown Dubai. These are all excellent stops, but to get close to the sights and smells of Dubai, take a trip across the Creek.
Hop on an abra between the Deira and Bur Dubai districts for just AED1 (30 cents) for a five-minute trip in the open-air wooden boats that take around 20 passengers and depart when full. Alternatively, hire a private abra for a Creek tour for around AED150 ($41) an hour for exclusive use. In the evening, there’s a host of floating dhow restaurants plying the water. Pay from around AED160 ($44) for a two-hour cruise and buffet-style dinner.

You should also make a foray to the Heritage Village, which is free to enter, yet strangely ignored by many cruise passengers despite its close location to Port Rashid. By day, it’s a subdued shadow of its evening persona, so, if possible, do go after 5 p.m. when residents and visitors gather for alfresco dining and a bustle of handicraft demonstrations.

It might seem the antithesis of a discovery tour, but malls are a must in Dubai. Shopping is in the blood and everyone gathers to stroll the world of global brands. Prices are at international levels and occasionally more expensive, but during the Dubai Shopping Festival in January, expect bargains. In Dubai, malls are not just malls; they might feature an ice rink and aquarium (Dubai Mall), a real ski slope and penguin colony (Mall of the Emirates), and indoor sky-diving (Mirdif City Centre). The Ibn Battuta Mall is probably the most visit-worthy, with a fascinating display relating to the namesake Arabic traveler who journeyed 75,000 miles as far as China, Russia, the Maldives, and India in the 14th century. Fabulous décor replicates the destinations he visited.

For a lively market, try the the weekend Covent Garden market at The Walk at Jumeirah Beach, which is open evenings Wednesday to Saturday and during the day on weekends. Interesting accessories, art and gifts, a relaxing beachside environment with cafés and restaurants, and frequent concerts and street performers make this a place for a lingering stroll.

Off the Beaten Path
Symbolizing the new Dubai a world away from wind towers and camels, there’s been an upsurge of art in the city, with independent galleries in the Al Quoz area, Gate Village in the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), and the Art Dubai showcase of contemporary art every March. Check out current exhibitions and contacts in Time Out Dubai.

Bird watchers should visit Ras Al Khor Dubai, a wildlife sanctuary 10 miles from the city center at the head of Dubai Creek. Covering more than 1,500 acres, the sanctuary is a staging post of migratory birds. In winter, there can be in excess of 20,000 birds of 67 species in the wetland.

This is an excerpt only. To read this article in its entirety, pick up the current issue of Porthole Cruise Magazine.